Day 14: Santiago

We got up at our regular early hour (relative) of 6:30, ate breakfast and then walked to the Pilgrim Office to get our "certificado."  To be certified, a pilgrim has to have walked a minimum of the last 101 miles, have a minimum of two stamps/day, and have a spiritual/religious intent. Allen and I predicted differently about the process. We arrived five minutes before the office opened, but there was already a line. It was sloooooooow. Allen found a place to sit, and I stood and moved forward for 80 minutes. When we were asked to come forward, it was similar to Customs. The person in authority had us sign a sheet with relevant information including the purpose of our walk-religious, spiritual, or tourist. She looked at our stamps and made sure that we had sufficient stamps at each stop.  Of particular importance was the village of Porrino, which is 101 miles away from Santiago. It was a thorough process and not one that is commercialized or done by "burned-out bureaucrats." Allen found out that his reviewer is Canadian and volunteers two weeks yearly.

Our book is stamped, but we also receive two very nice parchments suitable for framing.

So the following are pictures of the Cathedral, its Prazas, and surrounding grand buildings. Although the books, etc... talk about experiencing the emotions while here. We didn't feel spiritual in the Cathedral, although the emotions of some of the people, as well as the multiple masses going on in the many chapels made the vibrations palpable. I felt my sense of spiritualism departed when I entered the bustling city limits. We did have a lovely day. 

St. James looking down on all the activity from the center of the building.

Praza do Obradoiro-main square. This is the neoclassical seat of the Galician governemnt Pazo de Raxol, I believe.

 Fountain in Praza das Praterias near the southern door of the Cathedral, the oldest extant doorway and traditionally the one entered by the pilgrims coming from Portugal. Currently it is the only door because of work being done on the main door in the west side.

 Southern entrance

Over the entrance

Inside

Wonderful sculpture near Praza das Praterias

The Camino came alive again for me when I entered the delightful and well-designed museum.

The roots of pilgrimages are Jewish in which they went to Jerusalem for the Passover, Shavut, and Sukkot. Pilgrim in Roman times meant "he walks across others' land."

St. James (Sanitago in Spanish) was son of Zebedee and Mary Salome and brother of Apostle St. John. James and John were fishermen (also one of the reasons for the scallop shell symbol). He was beheaded by King Herod Agrippa in 42-44 AD

Scallop shells were originally given to pilgrims at the north entrance of the Cathedral at the end of their pilgrimage. They would sew them on their clothes or wear them around their necks such as this one that was found with two holes bored in it for a string. The scallop shell is similar to "hands" and symbolize good deeds.

Cross of St. James-combines sword and cross-Order of Santiago-"defenders of Christian faith" and the weapon used in St. James' death/martyrdom.

As early as the 820s, the discovery and identification of a tomb reputed to be the body of St. James, the Greater. As early as the 6C, it was believed that the Apostles were buried where they preached. St. James preached in Hispania (Roman Spain and Portugal).

Isabel of Portugal (1296-1336), wife of the Portuguese King, daughter of Pedro III of Aragon made a pilgrimage in 1325 and 1335 as a pilgrim. Called "St. Queen."

The discovery of the body was politically important in 9 C to Alfonso II of Asturias. It consolidates his position of power. Bishop Teodomiro who is head of the Church of Iria Flavia is the furthest west and most remote. The monk who is supposed to have dreamed about and found the body brings the information to the Bishop. The main routes for Camino de Santiago received official recognition in 1998 from the Council of Europe and are included in the World Heritage list.

St. James is an  intercessor. The miracles for the Codex Calixtinus in the 12C are that he is not asked to save lives, but rather foresee death or eternal damnation and protect the dying person from devils.

Common gem: jet stone

Fig Sign Amulet: closed left hand with thumb sticking out between middle and index fingers. While if made it is an insult, as an amulet it protects from the evil eye and placed especially on children during the middle ages.

Fearing possible attack from Sir Francis Drake in 1589, the Bishop ordered St. James' remains to be hidden. They were not found until 1899. Pope Leo XIII officially recognized them and the modern pilgrimage began.

Back out on the square, a busker's dog is ready for a swim.