Day 5: Ponte de Lima to Cossourado 15.5 miles
No internet last night so I am a day behind.
The walk was long and at times, strenuous. Allen and I were psyched for the steep climb (from 0 to 405 m), although very rocky; we were not as prepared for the long walk and heat after the climb. But we made it and enjoyed the feeling of accomplishment.
The first 4-5 miles were beautiful and as scenic as the last five days.
We stayed at a lovely hotel in Porte de Lima with a gracious host.
As we were leaving Ponte de Lima at around 8 AM, the enormous market was awakening.
First across the bridge with 22 arches in its foundation that was built in the 1st C and rebuilt on the existing foundation in the Middle Ages.
Crossing Lima River, St. Anthony in the distance
13th C chapel
Salute to Camino pilgrims
St. Anthony of the Old Tower (close up of earlier picture) devoted to the Guardian Angel
Back on our many different types of walking surfaces
Many of the roadside crosses
As we approach Labruja Mountain
The terrain is changing. Also there is a highway nearby so probably a new path was cut for the pilgrims-SMART and safer.
Our new friends from Columbia. Hard to believe, but these are two brothers and their mother. I thought she was the older brother's wife! She is 70!
As you can tell, the path up the mountain was quite rocky, making it even more a challenge. I am glad we hiked in the mountains of North Carolina, Georgia, Tennessee and Vermont in preparation.
We saw these bags gathering resin on many of the pine trees.
View from the top of the mountain
French Cross, or Cross of the Dead, which allegedly marks the spot where local people ambushed and killed stragglers of Napoleon's army in 1809. Their subsequent remorse of their actions led to the construction of the cross. When we looked closer, it is covered with pictures left by pilgrims, possibly of their dead, but remembered loved ones.
Portuguese farmer with a sickle making long stakes for beans and other climbing vegetables.
Near Rubiaes' a Romaneque church dedicated to St. Peter, built originally in the 13th C
At the church above, Roman milestones (Via XIX) were laid out and used as sarcophagi.
"miliario, historic Roman mile marker on the Via XIX
Very few structures are built of wood, but rather the native granite. Rarely destroyed, but rather rebuilt on the original sturdy foundation.
Roman Bridge, Pons Romana II, over Rio Coura
Our arrival point, Cossourado, originated the Portuguese "yellow arrow" designation for the Camino.
Allen checking in. I'll get my bitching out early. Too many cobblestones of granite. They are not flat, but have nodules so your foot lands with little protusions jolting your arch. One other bitch. Vivian's guidebook doesn't always give accurate distances. So we walk, and walk, on, what I call "the road to nowhere." Too much (aimless) walking yesterday. That's it. All in all, a great hike. Splendid waterfalls. Lots of animals in pastureland. Great people, and often, despite the language barriers, we communicate. Have not met one Spaniard yet. Just a curiosity. We take eggs and yogurt and bananas from the breakfast buffet, so we walk and hope for a cafe to appear, order a diet Coke (and Vivian a beer), and eat wholesome. Toured a 2000 year old fort in Valenca, we found a pharmacy for me to get a sleep, and has an exciting day planned tomorrow. Good night.
The walk was long and at times, strenuous. Allen and I were psyched for the steep climb (from 0 to 405 m), although very rocky; we were not as prepared for the long walk and heat after the climb. But we made it and enjoyed the feeling of accomplishment.
The first 4-5 miles were beautiful and as scenic as the last five days.
We stayed at a lovely hotel in Porte de Lima with a gracious host.
As we were leaving Ponte de Lima at around 8 AM, the enormous market was awakening.
First across the bridge with 22 arches in its foundation that was built in the 1st C and rebuilt on the existing foundation in the Middle Ages.
Crossing Lima River, St. Anthony in the distance
13th C chapel
Salute to Camino pilgrims
St. Anthony of the Old Tower (close up of earlier picture) devoted to the Guardian Angel
Back on our many different types of walking surfaces
Many of the roadside crosses
As we approach Labruja Mountain
The terrain is changing. Also there is a highway nearby so probably a new path was cut for the pilgrims-SMART and safer.
Our new friends from Columbia. Hard to believe, but these are two brothers and their mother. I thought she was the older brother's wife! She is 70!
As you can tell, the path up the mountain was quite rocky, making it even more a challenge. I am glad we hiked in the mountains of North Carolina, Georgia, Tennessee and Vermont in preparation.
We saw these bags gathering resin on many of the pine trees.
View from the top of the mountain
French Cross, or Cross of the Dead, which allegedly marks the spot where local people ambushed and killed stragglers of Napoleon's army in 1809. Their subsequent remorse of their actions led to the construction of the cross. When we looked closer, it is covered with pictures left by pilgrims, possibly of their dead, but remembered loved ones.
Portuguese farmer with a sickle making long stakes for beans and other climbing vegetables.
Near Rubiaes' a Romaneque church dedicated to St. Peter, built originally in the 13th C
At the church above, Roman milestones (Via XIX) were laid out and used as sarcophagi.
"miliario, historic Roman mile marker on the Via XIX
Very few structures are built of wood, but rather the native granite. Rarely destroyed, but rather rebuilt on the original sturdy foundation.
Roman Bridge, Pons Romana II, over Rio Coura
Allen checking in. I'll get my bitching out early. Too many cobblestones of granite. They are not flat, but have nodules so your foot lands with little protusions jolting your arch. One other bitch. Vivian's guidebook doesn't always give accurate distances. So we walk, and walk, on, what I call "the road to nowhere." Too much (aimless) walking yesterday. That's it. All in all, a great hike. Splendid waterfalls. Lots of animals in pastureland. Great people, and often, despite the language barriers, we communicate. Have not met one Spaniard yet. Just a curiosity. We take eggs and yogurt and bananas from the breakfast buffet, so we walk and hope for a cafe to appear, order a diet Coke (and Vivian a beer), and eat wholesome. Toured a 2000 year old fort in Valenca, we found a pharmacy for me to get a sleep, and has an exciting day planned tomorrow. Good night.
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